History of Polo Shirts in Modern Fashion
Written by Menswear Style
in
Fashion History
on the
11th June 2025
The polo shirt has transcended its sporting origins to become an undeniable icon in the world of fashion. Its journey from the polo fields of India to the runways of Paris is a testament to its timeless design, inherent versatility, and enduring comfort. Let’s look at the history of the polo shirt and explore its unwavering place in modern fashion.
From the Polo Grounds to a Sporting Revolution
The earliest iteration of the polo shirt emerged in 19th century India, where British polo players sought a more practical alternative to the stiff, long-sleeved shirts traditionally worn for the sport. They began adding buttons to their collars to prevent them from flapping in their faces during matches. This early concept was noted by John E. Brooks of Brooks Brothers during a visit to England. Upon his return to the United States, he introduced the first mass-marketed “polo shirt” in 1896, an Oxford cloth button-down shirt that bore the name but little resemblance to the polo shirt we know today.
The true genesis of the modern polo shirt is credited to French tennis legend René Lacoste. In the 1920s, tennis attire was still quite formal, typically involving long-sleeved white shirts. Lacoste, nicknamed “Le Crocodile” for his tenacity on the court, found these garments restrictive and uncomfortable, especially in warmer climates. He designed his own short-sleeved, breathable shirt made from a lightweight knitted cotton fabric called “petit piqué.”
This innovative design featured a soft collar that could be turned up to protect the neck from the sun, a buttoned placket, and a longer tail at the back (known as a “tennis tail”) to keep it tucked in during play.
Lacoste first wore his creation at the 1926 U.S. Open, and it quickly garnered attention for its practicality and comfort. In 1933, after retiring from tennis, Lacoste, along with André Gillier, founded La Chemise Lacoste to produce and sell his revolutionary tennis shirt, complete with the now-iconic crocodile logo embroidered on the chest – one of the first instances of a brand logo appearing on the outside of a garment.
Crossing Over: From Sportswear to Casual Chic
While initially designed for tennis, the comfort and stylish simplicity of Lacoste’s creation soon appealed to polo players, who adopted it as their preferred attire, solidifying the “polo shirt” moniker. Its popularity wasn’t confined to the sports world for long. In the 1950s, Lacoste began exporting to America, positioning the polo shirt as a symbol of the accomplished sportsman and targeting an affluent demographic.
Other brands soon followed suit. Tennis player Fred Perry launched his version in 1954, and in 1972, Ralph Lauren introduced his take on the polo shirt as a cornerstone of his Polo Ralph Lauren line. Lauren’s version, available in a wide array of colors and featuring the emblematic polo player logo, became immensely popular and further propelled the men’s polo shirt into mainstream fashion, transforming it into a preppy style essential.
The Enduring Popularity of the Polo Shirt
The polo shirt’s inherent adaptability allowed it to seamlessly transition into high fashion. Designers recognized its potential, and the polo shirt became a staple in collections, often reimagined with luxury fabrics, contemporary fits, and unique detailing. This elevation solidified its status as a garment that could be both casual and sophisticated.
The modern men’s designer polo continues to evolve with slimmer fits, innovative fabrics, and bold designs, ensuring it remains relevant for contemporary wardrobes.
Whether a classic piqué knit or a modern performance version, the polo shirt remains a versatile, comfortable, and effortlessly stylish garment, securing its enduring place in wardrobes worldwide for generations to come.
