Walking in the Footsteps of the Incas
The stories he shared about his treks and what he learned on them convinced me that those were the people I wanted to show me around the Sacred Valley so I could have my own pretend Indiana Jones moment: Me, the wilderness, and my local guide. His stories about his treks, and what he had learned, convinced me to choose the company to guide me through the Sacred Valley. I could have my own Indiana Jones moment, with me, my local guide, and the wilderness. Although a private trip was more expensive, I wanted to go at my own pace with my own guide. The owner Paul told me that a few Amazonas staff members would also be joining us, which made it feel more like a local group hike than a tourist one. I chose the KM104 trail, which begins at the KM104 marker (104km away from Cusco and an exit point for the train from Ollantaytambo into Machu Picchu). It takes you through Sacred Valley, a few Incan ruins, and then connects with the main Inca trail that leads to Machu Picchu. *
Paul wrote in an email: “We’ll pick you up from your Cusco hotel at 4:30am so that we can catch the train.”
A 4:30am pick-up meant that I would have to wake up at 3:30am, which was not something I wanted.
“Can we go later?” I asked. It’s only me.”
“Nope, you have to take the train at 6:45am from Ollantaytambo which is about two hours away from Cusco. We can’t be tardy. We have a strict schedule. There was a B option! Instead of waking up at night, I chose to go to Ollantaytambo a day earlier so that I could sleep until the train ….arrived. While Indiana Jones may be able find artifacts with little sleep, I cannot. Ollantaytambo, once a major Incan town, is situated on the Urubamba River, surrounded by high mountains. Its extensive ruins provide beautiful views of the valley. It seemed more appealing to see them than get up early. So I arrived midafternoon, to explore the ruins and pack my day bag, before relaxing for the hike.
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Tip
: Don’t go when I did! Arrive early in order to avoid the crowds from Cusco. Bring a lot more sunscreen, as there are no shades! Although the ruins are beautiful, they give you a glimpse of what’s to come. The next evening I relaxed at El Albergue – a boutique located near the train station. It was impossible to find a more convenient hotel — you can literally walk right out of the door and onto the train. I ate a lot of carbs, including food from the garden. I packed my bags and went to sleep early in the most comfortable bed I’d ever slept in. After waking at a more reasonable 5:45am I met Efrain and we boarded a train to Machu Picchu. We got off at KM104 so that we could meet up with two other people from Amazonas who would be joining us. As the train snaked its way through the valley, staff members served us coca to help with altitude. It is an indigenous traditional remedy in the area for altitude sickness (it’s the same plant that cocaine is made from). It’s not only effective, but has an earthy herbal taste I have grown to enjoy. As I sipped on my tea, Efrain & I discussed the logistics for the next two days as we got to know one another. He was a native of the area and had been guiding for more than twenty years. Funny and really knowledgeable about the region’s flora, fauna, and Incan history, he used to lead a lot of group tours but now mostly does private ones with Amazonas.
When we got off the train, we met up with Katy and Lourdes, our hiking companions. Katy, who had been a guide in the past, had done this hike many times. But it was Lourdes first time and she was just as nervous as I was. My broken Spanish helped us bond over it. After checking in at the ticket control we began our 12-km-hike (7.5 miles) up to Machu Picchu. The first leg of our journey followed the Urubamba River which snakes its way through the Sacred Valley and eventually flows around Machu Picchu before merging with a few rivers. The Urubamba River was diverted decades ago to create the hydroelectric plant that supplies most of the power to the region. The climb up was an upward path punctuated with steeper ascents, stairs and various Incan trails. It was harder than I expected because of the altitude and sun. Although I consider myself fit, I rested a lot. I was happy that we were able to hike at our own pace. We would also pass other tour groups as they took breaks. Efrain explained that anyone who doesn’t wish to complete the entire trek but still wants to reach Machu Picchu must hike this path. As I watched a tour group pass us during one of our stops, I asked: “So these groups will be with you the whole way?” They will be there tomorrow too if they’re visiting the ruins. As I looked at the trail, I said “By the by,” as I noted that I hated heights and sheer drop. He assured me that the trail would widen in the near future.
“Hmmm… that’s not an answer,” I responded.
As I hugged the hill, I tried to keep my eyes on the trail, and was grateful to be able to go at my own pace. We slowly made our way up the narrow and winding trail. The arid, exposed trail became shaded and cooler as the air cooled and waterfalls were heard. Efrain pointed to native orchids while we climbed higher (we kept going up, and up, and up!). We then drove to the Incan site Winay Wayna. It is not known much about this site except that it was a location for agricultural experimentation. It is possible that the soil samples show remnants of plants and fruits that are not native to this region, and don’t grow here. This could indicate that this area was used for agricultural experiments (the Incas were known to do this a lot). The upper portion of the temples and homes had balconies with stunning views that anyone would pay a lot to see today. I imagined how centuries ago an Inca would have gazed at this same view after a long day of hard work. I wondered if they enjoyed it as much. Love of nature is universal, and it transcends all cultures. From there, we had a quick meal before continuing on to Machu Picchu. As the clouds began to roll in, I accelerated my pace, hoping that the weather would clear. Efrain pointed all the orchids out along the way but I was focused on reaching the Sun Gate before clouds obscured the view. The Sun Gate is Machu Picchu’s main entrance. The steps were believed to be a control gate that was used by those entering and leaving the city. This would have been protected by the Incan army. The gate gets its name because, due to its location on an escarpment on the southeast side of the city, the sun rises through it every year at the summer solstice. Katy, noticing my nervousness, joked: “We might have to sacrifice to the Gods.”
Efrain turned to Lourdes and said “It may be that you will have to sacrifice yourself, as we cannot sacrifice Matt!” We all laughed. “Okay, then I will run as I cannot miss this.” “You’ve seen it before,” he shouted as I ran along the last part of the trail towards the Sun Gate. I arrived just in time to see Machu Picchu, before the clouds began to roll in. It was magical. It was the sight of my dreams, the dream I had aspired to for so many years! The sight was just as amazing as I had imagined. Even though the clouds covered the mountains and some structures, the feeling was ethereal. Efrain, and eventually the rest of us, arrived. As we waited to see Machu Picchu in the mist, we made friends with the family from California. We set up our cameras and hoped for a glimpse of it. Efrain said it was time to go, and I would have liked to stay longer. But he told us that we had to move on. We continued to the ruins where I saw Machu Picchu in the clouds, from the viewpoint above the city. Efrain pointed to the areas surrounding the historic site and said: “Tomorrow we will explore these areas.” But for now, it’s time to check in to the hotel. There are three different routes available today, each requiring a separate ticket. This is to help control crowds. We chose the route that had the most buildings. Machu Picchu is known as the “Lost City of the Incas” and is one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. It was built around 1450 CE as the royal estate of Emperor Pachacuti and served a variety of purposes including religious, administrative, and agricultural functions. The Incas built it here because they could mine stone locally and didn’t need to transport building materials over the mountains. It was abandoned after the Spanish conquest in the area. Machu Picchu remained largely unknown until its rediscovery in 1911 by American historian Hiram Bingham III, who was searching for the famed “Lost City of the Incas,” supposedly their last hideout and filled with gold (though that is actually believed to be Vilcabamba).
Efrain gave me such a detailed history that it felt like I had a professor with me. He explained how the Incas built their buildings to allow for drainage of all the rain. He also discussed theories on which buildings were used. He gave me the lowdown of modern politics and revealed that a large part of the historical area hasn’t been excavated yet or restored due to corruption and funding issues. His descriptions had me lost and I was amazed at the ingenuity of Inca engineering. They had conquered the mountains with beauty and style. I would have loved to see Machu Picchu from its highest point. What a sight! After a half day of exploring (and wishing that I had more time for the other routes), the time came to board the train to Ollantaytambo or Cusco. It was a great feeling to finally see one of the most famous sites in human history. It was surreal. The hike was incredible, despite being difficult. While I rested my eyes on the return trip, I felt happy that I had finally seen something I wanted to see since I was a child.
About the Tour Company
Amazonas Explorer mostly runs private tours, but it does have some larger group offerings. Check out this company if you want to travel with a large group or on your own. It is also featured in the book Turn Right At Machu Picchu which is why I selected it. The Inca Trail is everywhere. You can call any of the 40,000 kms of roads the Incas built an “Inca Trail.” But for this post, I’m referring to the multiday trek that leads up to Machu Picchu. Note: Efrain is also Mark’s guide. Book Your Trip to Peru – Logistical Tips & Tricks.
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