My Suggested Black Forest Itinerary
I was expecting to find quaint medieval villages, overgrown forests and perhaps a gingerbread home or two in the land of Brothers Grimm. It turns out that the Brothers Grimm stories were not from the Black Forest (most of them are from central Germany). Why did I think that they were from the Black Forest? Maybe I got that from Disney? The area was largely turned into farmland in the 1800s and 1700s due to the massive logging that took place. The forest has only recently started to slowly return to this area, thanks to eco-friendly locals. My bucket list had always included a trip to the Black Forest. I was happy that I finally got to cross it off. It was a wonderful experience, but I wish I could have spent more time. This area in Baden-Wurttemberg is known for its forests. This area, located in the German state of Baden-Wurttemberg, is famous for forests (duh! It’s easy to get to the Black Forest: You can fly into Frankfurt in the north or Zurich in south and then take a 1-2-hour train ride to whatever starting city you choose.
It’s very easy to get to the Black Forest: You can fly into Frankfurt to the north or Zurich to the south and then just take a 1-2-hour train ride to whatever starting city you choose.
What’s the best one-week route to take?
If you had a week, I would do the route below, from Frankfurt (or reverse it if you come from Switzerland):
Heidelberg (2 days)
This university town has lots to see, as well as many viewpoints and short hikes from the city center. The castle and gardens offer a great view of the city. If you have a week, I would recommend the following route. You must take a guided tour to enter the castle. The grounds are however free. The Heidelberger Kunstverein museum and theater, as well as the Heidelberger Universitätsjail (where students who violated university rules were held until World War II), are also worth a visit. Finally, there are a number of hikes to the mountain across the river.
Baden-Baden (2 days)
This spa town is famous for the hot springs that flow naturally here, a prominent attraction since the Romans discovered them. In the 18th century the baths and casino (think of Monaco, but less glamorous) were the main attractions, drawing the nobility and rich from all over Europe. Baden-Baden has become a popular spa town. Two large bathhouses are located in the town, the historic Friedrichsbad, which is nude while the more recent Caracalla, is not. There is also the Hohenbaden Castle and a funicular that takes you to the top Hausberg mountain, where there is a view of the surrounding area. There’s also lots of hiking in the Black Forest. The city of Freiburg is my favorite in the region. It has a beautifully reconstructed downtown (most of it was destroyed during WWII), beautiful open streams running through the town, a great food scene and reasonable prices thanks to its large university. The cathedral, historical clocktowers and the merchant’s Hall, as well as an archaeological museum and Schlossberg, which is a mountain with a castle, are also highlights.
I’d use the city to base myself for hikes in Ravenna Gorge and a trip to Triberg with its giant waterfall and cuckoo-clock. Ravenna Gorge can be a half-day or full-day hike, depending on the amount of area you wish to cover. You will see waterfalls and farmland as you wander through the gorge.
Triberg’s giant waterfall and cuckoo-clock are famous. If you have two weeks to spare, I’d add another day to Freiburg. There’s so much to see and do there, plus you can do more day trips. Then I would also add in the following:
Offenburg (1 day, after Baden-Baden)
Offenburg, whose name means “open borough,” is famous for its medieval city wall, houses, and churches, though it started as a Roman settlement. There are many buildings that exhibit Baroque and Gothic styles. The castle, the history museum and Black Forest Open Air Museum are all within a 40 minute drive of Offenburg. 
Europa-Park (1 day, on the way from Offenburg to Freiburg)
This theme park is like a European Disneyland. This theme park is a lot of entertainment, very popular among locals and much cheaper than Disney. It’s also a great way to spend a day. You can either stay at the park itself or in Rust, a nearby town. 
Hiking in Titisee Schluchsee and Feldberg (2 days or more)
This area has many lakes and hiking trails, so you can spend as much time in nature as you want. Titisee, a town on the shores of a lake by that name, is ideal for water sports. Schluchsee also has a lot to offer. Feldberg is a great place to base yourself for day hikes. You’ll find hiking trails everywhere. How do you travel around the Black Forest?
While a rental car is the best way to explore the region, you can also use the bus or train. This is what I chose to do. It’s important to know that, while trains run frequently, buses are often limited, especially on weekends, when Germany is on holiday. You should check the schedules of trains and buses in advance if you don’t plan on renting a car to travel to smaller cities.
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The Black Forest was my highlight of my European summer. The Black Forest was the place where I had the most fun and met the most people. The atmosphere was great. The Black Forest is a great place to visit if you enjoy cute towns, budget travel, good food and the outdoors. Get Your In-Depth Guide to Europe!
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